The 9 New Watches We Can’t Stop Thinking About

January is a big month for watch enthusiasts. With LVMH Watch Week, a slew of novelties hit the market, setting the tone for the new year (check out Robb Report’s full coverage here). Other brands use the start of the year as an excuse to introduce new models in advance of the spring shows in Geneva. As a watch editor, I rely on January’s news to provide a guide to the kinds of products to expect in the months to come, but also to get a sense of the prevailing mood.

Last year, for example, Louis Vuitton introduced a jump hour watch in its Tambour line with a beguiling guichet display that turned out to be a harbinger of jump hour models to come. In reviewing my takeaways from last year’s LVMH Watch Week, I am also reminded of the quotes that Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer’s chief executive, gave me about the state of the business. This year, Pin departed the group before watch week started, leaving the brand CEO-less. A sign of trouble at the world’s largest luxuryLuxuryA lifestyle defined by exceptional quality, craftsmanship, exclusivity, and sophistication, encompassing the finest products, services, and experiences that represent the highest standards of refinement and excellence.Go to Luxury Glossary group? Probably. For now, however, I’m content to savor the watches. Below, I’ve highlighted my favorite new introductions from a slew of brands (including two distinct watchmakers that both bear the Genta name and bask in founder Gérald Genta’s enduring legacy).

Bulgari Maglia Milanese Monete Secret Watch

For Bulgari fans accustomed to seeing new watches in the brand’s iconic Serpenti line, LVMH Watch Week held a few surprises. First and foremost was the piece the brand chose to feature on the cover of its press kit: The new Monete secret watch borrows its styling from a collection introduced in the mid-1960s, when jewelry featuring ancient coins—in this case, depicting Emperor Caracalla, c. 198–297 AD—first struck a chord with buyers. Beyond its chic dial cover, the watch stands out thanks to its supple rose gold bracelet made using the traditional art of Milanese mesh. Che bello! $155,000

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton

An openworked version of the brand’s defining watch, the new Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is housed in Roth’s signature double ellipse case. Given that he never produced an openworked model in the Extra Plat line, however, the piece takes a fresh point of view. “Opening the movement allows its elegance to speak in a new way, while remaining faithful to Mr. Roth’s earliest ambitions and attachment to traditional high watchmaking,” says Matthieu Hegi, artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. On view for all to see is the manually wound calibre DR002SR, a new shaped movement manufactured entirely in-house, its slender proportions and refined finishing a testament to how Roth’s vision continues to evolve under Louis Vuitton’s ownership. 85,000 Swiss francs (about $107,688)

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Meteorite

Founded by Gérald Charles Genta in 2000, Gerald Charles is a boutique brand quietly gathering momentum. Best known for its signature Maestro case, which features an octagonal silhouette punctuated by a distinct “smile” on its bottom edge, the brand had a big presence at Dubai Watch Week. Last week, before LVMH’s new timepieces flooded the content sphere, it unveiled its Maestro 2.0 Meteorite models, two watches bearing meteorite dials with small-seconds indicators peering through the Maestro case architecture. Available in two executions—one featuring a dark meteorite dial with red accents in a “Darkblast” steel case and the other with a silver meteorite dial with gold accents and a polished steel case—the watches take the gemstone dial trend to its most cosmic extreme. $28,400

Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only

A follow-up to the subtly sophisticated minute repeater that LVMH-owned Gérald Genta introduced at Geneva Watch Days in September, the new Geneva Time Only watch is housed in the same cushion-shaped case as its complicated predecessor (said to be a “softer” version of Genta’s original 1970s case) but this time, the brand has opted for a simpler approach that emphasizes the model’s “not-quite-round” form and its two tone-on-tone interpretations, one warm and the other cool. The Geneva Time Only Marrone model is housed in a 38 mm rose gold case. With its grained brass dial, which features a gradient smoked effect, and brown leather strap, the model exudes a warm, slightly retro vibe. Its cooler counterpart, the Geneva Time Only Grafite, boasts a metallic appearance thanks to its white gold case and silver-shaded grained brass dial. In naming the collection “Geneva,” the house is channeling the city’s horological excellence as well as its refined international style. 25,000 Swiss francs (about $31,673)

Louis Vuitton Escale Tiger Eye

While Louis Vuitton’s new Escale Worldtime watch is grabbing most of the attention, I’m partial to the line’s new Tiger Eye model, a 40 mm gold timepiece with an elegant tiger’s eye dial. The gemstone dial trend may be nearing its apogee, but it’s tough to find fault with such a flawless take. $54,500

TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer

Formula 1 is the big news in the TAG Heuer universe, but the brand has equal legitimacy in the world of sailing, as embodied in the newest version of its celebrated “Skipper” regatta wristwatch. Inspired by a historic Heuer Seafarer model conceived by Walter Haynes, the president of Abercrombie & Fitch, the 42 mm model combines fine brushed and polished surfaces with a Champagne dial bearing “Intrepid Teal” accents on the hour and minute dials. I’m drawn to its subtle nautical design, a refreshing break from the brand’s fleet of car racing homages. $8,800

Tiffany Timer

Tiffany & Co. has a long history in watchmaking, but in recent years, much of that legacy has taken a backseat to its jewelry and gemsetting expertise, as seen in the brand’s spectacular array of gem-set watches. This month, the house makes clear that it excels at traditional, masculine watchmaking with the debut of the Tiffany Timer, a limited edition of 60 pieces that pays tribute to the 160th anniversary of its first chronograph, introduced in 1866. A customized El Primero 400 chronograph movement powers the 40 mm platinum model, which bears all the hallmarks of a Tiffany design, including a faceted crown that echoes the house’s six-pronged Tiffany Setting; the iconic Bird on a Rock, pictured sitting atop the open-worked winding rotor on the caseback; baguette diamond hour markers; and a dial bathed in unmistakable Tiffany Blue lacquer. $55,000

Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Sage Green Edition

The subtle pastel-green shade of Hublot’s newest Classic Fusion collection feels just right for the new year. Available in three iterations, each in titanium—a diamond-set 33 mm version, a 42 mm three-handed style, and a 45 mm chronograph—the new Sage Green editions feature sunray finished dials, rubber straps, and, most seductive of all, Milanese mesh bracelets that suggest the woven threaded style is bound to be a 2026 obsession. $9,300

Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton

For LVMH Watch Week, Zenith refreshed its Defy collection, relaunched in 2022, with a round of new pieces highlighting the line’s architecture, material innovation, and urban appeal, not to mention its versatility. That last quality is especially evident in the collection’s new 41 mm black ceramic and gold-toned skeleton dial model, which emanates masculine and feminine vibes in equal measure. $18,900

This article originally appeared in Robb Report US.