First Taste: Monochromatic 2025 at Helm

Had I known last week, when I dined at Helm for a first taste of Josh Boutwood’s new Monochromatic 2025 menu, that it would receive the country’s first two-star Michelin rating, I would have done nothing differently, and I would have enjoyed myself immensely, just like I always do.

I have had the pleasure of many meals at Helm and at Josh Boutwood’s other restaurants, and every experience has been quietly revelatory. There’s a rare balance here: the service is highly calibrated, almost choreographed, yet never stiff. Josh’s dry humor and playful banter with diners weave warmth into precision, reminding you that behind the artistry is a chef who loves what he does and who has loved it since he first apprenticed at sixteen in a Michelin-starred kitchen. “I was captivated by the precision and care that went into each dish,” he once told me. “It was from the very get-go that I said to myself, I want a restaurant like this.”

Even the smallest elements in the Monochromatic menu reveal this devotion. The menu begins with four snacks, which, in many ways, are microcosms of the entire experience: creative, laborious, thoughtful, and, above all, delicious.

The first is a delicate roll of lightly cured hamachi flown in from Japan, wrapped in nori, topped with ginger and freshly grated wasabi and finished with a gelée imbued with umami and briny notes. The second snack, a rice mochi, combines sweet lobster and local prawns  together with their bisque, finished with a local lime kosho made with lime zest, sea salt, and chilies that have been left to meld for seven days. Each bite is effortless on the palate yet carries layers of thought, time, and technique.

The third snack: wagyu tartare, topped with crème fraîche infused with fresh horseradish root, giving it a peppery lift, and some chive oil. Accompanying it are crackers made from beef tendon that are braised, pressed, sliced, dehydrated, then deep-fried and are Josh’s meticulous and playful take on “chips and dip.” The final bite is a mushroom and foie gras tartlet wrapped in a savory lardo. It is earthy, rich, and elegant.

Even at the start of the meal, the snacks alone speak volumes. They are inventive and complex, each element a testament to Josh’s care, precision, and intelligence. Every bite hints at the layered thoughtfulness of the courses yet to come. 

The menu represents a vivid culinary journey through a spectrum of color where each dish draws inspiration from a single hue. One course features bluefin tuna, its purity highlighted with just sesame oil and sea salt. On top, an emulsion of aged miso brings depth and umami, while a coconut-based sauce infused with local citrus fruit adds a bright acidity. Thinly sliced radicchio, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil and a tamarind-based vinegar, introduces a fruity counterpoint. The dish is an elegant interplay of flavors, textures, and visual cues.

At one point, I realized just how rarely we encounter blue on a plate. Josh’s interpretation of a delicate chawanmushi  that was infused with spirulina then dotted with tender octopus made the color feel natural while the flavors remained precise and harmonious.

The next course, a poached coho salmon, was paired with a sweet carrot purée, a rich taba ng talangka (crab fat), an oil infused with local Arabica coffee, and a crisp dehydrated cracker. The combination balanced sweetness, richness, and nuanced notes from the coffee, demonstrating Josh’s instinct for highlighting  flavors and textures that continue to surprise. 

No meal at Helm would be complete without the famous bread course. Anyone familiar with Josh and his repertoire knows he makes some of the best bread around. Using his own starter, each slice of the tangy sourdough to a perfectly laminated brioche, is served alongside a trifecta of flavored butters and some extra version olive oil. It’s a simple  and utterly satisfying moment but one that epitomizes Josh’s dedication to craft.

One of my favorites of the night was the seabass, served with a coconut-based sauce infused with chilies and kaffir leaves, evoking the warmth of a gentle curry. Pickled kohlrabi and peppery watercress added acidity and contrast, while a drizzle of dill oil brought a fresh, aromatic lift to the dish. Each element felt considered and balanced.

Another exciting course was quail prepared two ways: a braised breast paired with a crispy fried leg, accompanied by earthy chanterelles and toasted hazelnuts. Then came the A5 wagyu striploin, dried for five days to concentrate its flavors and served with a trio of beets and an assortment of fermented root vegetables that added depth and umami. These last two dishes exemplifies Josh’s meticulous knack for turning a single ingredient into a gastronomic experience that is layered with flavor, texture, and thought.

Dessert was a delicate pavlova-like cloud filled with the tropical flavors of mango, passionfruit, and saffron cream, followed by a selection of meticulously crafted mignardises. 

While a wine pairing is available, I opted instead for the 5-course juice pairing, which was an absolute revelation. Each juice showcased fresh, vibrant flavors and complexities with standout combinations such as yuzu coconut water, mint tea with hibiscus, and ginger watermelon, elevating the meal in unexpected and delightful ways.

Josh Boutwood is not one to chase awards, accolades, or fame, but I am so happy this recognition has arrived. Helm is now the only restaurant in the country with two Michelin stars. Every dish, every flavor on the Monochromatic menu reminds you why this is not merely a meal at one of Manila’s fine dining restaurants, but an excellent culinary experience that is absolutely “worthy of a detour.”