At the 1993 opening of Baselworld—then the horological industry’s largest trade show—an apoplectic Gerald Genta stormed into Audemars Piguet’s booth, screaming, “You killed my Royal Oak! You killed my Royal Oak!” At least that’s how Emmanuel Gueit remembers it. The classic reference’s legendary creator aimed his anger squarely at the then 25-year-old designer, who had just unveiled the Royal Oak Offshore, a bolder, bigger take on the 1970s original designed by Genta. Gueit recalls replying in a low voice, “Nice to meet you, too, Mr. Genta.” The amplified redesign was far from the model’s demise. The Offshore can reasonably be credited with turning around Audemars Piguet’s fortunes and setting the stage for Gueit’s long and distinguished career. Decades later, it’s still the brightest spot on a C.V. that features commissions from Rolex, Harry Winston, and other well-known brands. But the designer, who turns 58 this year, says his lifelong dedication to watches almost didn’t happen...
