Vacheron Constantin Just Dropped a New Steel Version of Its Ultra-Hot 222 Model
Vacheron Constantin is following up on the highly coveted revamp of its ’70s-era 222 model, which debuted in 18-karat yellow gold in 2022 at Watches & Wonders in Geneva. The watch, designed by 24-year-old Jorg Hysek and debuted in 1977 for the company’s 222nd anniversary, was one of several sporty bracelet models released at the time.
This period also marked the arrival of the now impossible-to-get Gerald Genta-designed Patek PhilippePatek PhilippeA Swiss watchmaker founded in Geneva in 1839 and widely regarded as among the most prestigious in the world, known for complications, hand finishing, and its slogan about passing watchesGo to Patek Philippe Glossary Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Since the resurgence in popularity of these timepieces in recent years, the 222 had somewhat flown under the radar in comparison (save for some savvy collectors who were already snapping up vintage versions). However, with the updated version that launched two years ago, the timepiece was back on the map in a big way. Now, the Swiss house is coming to the table with a release that promises to be even bigger—a steel Historiques 222.
The first iteration received plenty of attention and was embraced by A-listers like Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. However, an all-gold watch is still a flashy proposition for the average client, so the steel version will likely be serious catnip for more conservative collectors. It’s easy to imagine it will also be attractive to current owners of the gold version, as the steel model will be less prone to scratching for a better proposition as a daily wear.
The steel 37 mm “Jumbo” 222 comes with a navy blue dial, which, outside of the case and bracelet, is the only difference between the all-gold version. Like its 2022 predecessor, it comes with the Maltese Cross accent on the case at 5 o’clock, a triple-blade clasp, a sapphire crystal caseback for a view of the 3.6 mm-thick Calibre 2455/2 movement, a gold oscillating weight engraved with the 222 logo, and a better-positioned date window. Compared to the ’70s original, the movement has been updated for modern times with a higher frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) compared to its previous 2.75 Hz, as well as enhanced precision and 40 hours of power reserve.
While it is not a limited editionLimited EditionA product produced in deliberately restricted numbers, often numbered, signed, and distinguished by special materials or design. Limited editions create scarcity, urgency, and desirability, and they are common across watches,Go to Limited Edition Glossary, you can safely assume the $32,000 steel 222 will be hard to get. Will it be more challenging to obtain than a Patek Philippe Nautilus or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? Vacheron Constantin has always maintained a more discreet position than those two brands in the marketplace, so it will likely be a touch easier for now, and that’s part of the appeal.
The hype for the Nautilus and Royal Oak has been so exhaustive that even though Vacheron Constantin seems late to the game on the ’70s design revival frenzy, it may be coming just at the right time, with reports of interest waning in the Nautilus (although it is still not easily obtainable in the primary market and vastly above retail in the secondary market). A few years ago, a colleague in Monaco once told us local collectors were already fatigued from seeing the same models on their friends’ wrists and were already seeking alternatives to hype watches. The steel 222 will be a welcome “newcomer” to the established mix.
To view more photos of the Vacheron Constantin Steel Historiques 222, click here.
This article originally appeared in Robb Report US.