Bulgari Turns American Art Into Five Serpenti Jewels

A monumental golden serpent rose from New York’s High Line for the launch of Bulgari’s five new Serpenti high-jewelry creations. Titled auruBOROS—Urban Memory and Collective Dream, the installation by Berlin-based art duo Plastique Fantastique brought the maison’s emblem to an architectural scale, forming the public centerpiece of Serpenti Infinito New York.

The setting, its unveiling graced by maison muses Anne Hathaway and Dua Lipa, reflected the ideas behind the jewels themselves. Jackson Pollock’s fluid marks, Jasper Johns’s American flag, the geometry of Miami Beach, and the spiral of New York’s Guggenheim Museum rarely appear in the same conversation. Bulgari brings them together through its most recognizable motif: the serpent.

Unveiled earlier this month, the five one-of-a-kind pieces interpret American art and architecture through gold, diamonds, coral, tanzanite, amethyst, aquamarine, rubellite, and spinel. Each retains the coiled form and vivid use of color associated with Serpenti while translating a distinct part of America’s visual culture into high jewelry.

Serpenti Falling Drops Necklace

The gestural energy of Jackson Pollock’s drip paintings informs the Serpenti Falling Drops necklace. Its diamond-set, 18-karat white-gold serpent holds a large triangular gemstone in its mouth, creating the impression of color suspended in midair.

The wearer can alternate between a 25.76-carat amethyst and a 23.13-carat aquamarine. Both stones are detachable, allowing the necklace to move between two distinct palettes while retaining its diamond-set structure. The unusual triangular cuts heighten the sense of a droplet about to fall.

Serpenti Flag Necklace

Jasper Johns’s paintings of the American flag provide the visual reference for the Serpenti Flag necklace. Bulgari translates the familiar red, white, and blue palette into coral, diamonds, and tanzanite set against 18-karat rose gold.

A 18.75-carat pear-shaped tanzanite anchors the composition. Rather than reproducing the flag literally, the necklace uses its colors as a framework for the serpent’s scales, balancing an immediately recognizable reference with Bulgari’s established taste for saturated gemstones.

Serpenti Flag Bracelet

The corresponding Serpenti Flag bracelet continues the same chromatic study on the wrist. Coral elements supply the red, sugarloaf tanzanites introduce blue, and pavé diamonds provide white light. Onyx adds depth to the rose-gold setting.

At its center is a 13.79-carat pear-shaped tanzanite. The mixture of polished coral, domed sugarloaf stones, and diamond pavé gives the bracelet a varied surface, with each material responding differently to light.

Serpenti Ocean Deco Necklace

Miami’s oceanfront Art Deco architecture lends its geometry and color to the Serpenti Ocean Deco necklace. The 18-karat rose-gold serpent circles the neck, bringing its head and tail together around a 17.98-carat cushion-cut rubellite.

The stone’s purplish-pink color supplies the necklace’s focal point. Its symmetrical arrangement recalls the strong lines and decorative contrasts associated with Miami’s Art Deco buildings, while the serpent’s curved body keeps the composition fluid.

Serpenti Helix Necklace

The Serpenti Helix necklace takes its cue from the ascending spiral of New York’s Guggenheim Museum. A diamond-set white-gold serpent coils around an 18-karat yellow-gold Tubogas choker, forming an infinity symbol across the front.

A detachable 5.46-carat pear-shaped Tanzanian spinel hangs from the serpent’s mouth. Removing the gemstone produces a more graphic gold-and-diamond composition, giving the one-of-a-kind necklace two configurations.

Together, the five pieces demonstrate how readily Serpenti can absorb references beyond Bulgari’s Roman origins. American painting, public iconography, and architecture provide the source material, while the serpent supplies a continuous line through each creation. The result is a concise portrait of American visual culture rendered in Bulgari’s language of color, volume, and exceptional stones.

Bulgari boutiques are located at Unit 14, Level 1, Greenbelt 3 Esperanza Street, Ayala Center, Makati City Makati City, Metro Manila (+63 2 7915 6213) and The Shoppes, Solaire Resort, 1 Asean Avenue, Paranaque City Manila, Metro Manila, 1701 (+63 2 8241 3287).