Jorge Mendez, the chef behind Modan, has turned his attention to ramen. He's opened Mugen, a ten-seater bar on Maginhawa Street in his hometown of Quezon City. His crab broth oozes with the essence of pounded shrimp heads and crab fat, with a richness that evokes laksa, made creamy with a base of sesame paste. Chunks of crab meat add sweetness to the briny, savory bowl. It’s one of a number of stars on the short menu. We were fortunate to have been present at the very first seating, oohing and ahhing as Mendez and his team presented their array with starters like gyoza dumplings with a savory dipping sauce, nuggets of shrimp and golden brown karaage, and a crab claw hugged in a bun topped with fish roe. The wagyu ramen features a rich broth topped with A5-grade beef, tendon, and a fresh egg. The marbled meat also..
