Savoring Smith & Wollensky

In the late ‘80s, Smith & Wollensky was an alluring enigma to me. Grown-up, a little intimidating, and completely out of reach, it was the kind of place where I imagined real deals went down over martinis and rare cuts, spoken of with a mix of awe and reverence. In my early twenties, fresh out of college and trying to find my footing in New York City, a meal at this high-profile New York steakhouse is what young people now would consider “goals.” If anyone my age had been, it was immediately name-dropped, and it was almost always on a visiting relative’s dime.

Its signature green-and-white wooden facade stood out like an artifact among Midtown Manhattan’s towering glass-and-steel giants. On most evenings, black town cars idled at the curb and around the block, as did the thick smell of charred meat, heavy cologne, and cigarette smoke, my imagined scent of power. Everyone wore suits. It smelled like success. It smelled like money.

I’ll never forget my first meal at Smith & Wollensky. It took a few years, but I finally got there, and when I did, it was just as good as I had imagined. The steak was unforgettable, but it was the atmosphere that stayed with me—the way voices carried across the room, the steady hum of engaging conversation, and it made me realize that all these details are an integral part of the dining experience.  From then on, Smith & Wollensky served as a blueprint for what I expected from a steakhouse: good food, sophistication, and an electric energy that makes you feel like anything is possible.

Founded in 1977 in New York City by restaurateur Alan Stillman, the same visionary behind T.G.I. Friday’s, Smith & Wollensky is renowned for its proprietary in-house dry-aging of USDA Prime steaks. In the mid-80s, Stillman awarded the global licensing rights to a group of international partners, paving the way for its expansion in and beyond the U.S. Today, there are multiple locations across the globe.

In July 2025, Smith & Wollensky opened its first Philippine outpost at the Finance Centre in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, its fourth location in Asia, and the fifth outside the U.S. What once was anchored to my memory and the mythology of New York power lunches and velvet-lined deals, is now in BGC, a new and emerging city with the same pulsating and eager energy, and I couldn’t be happier. There’s something surreal about seeing it here, nestled among BGC’s new glass towers. But maybe that’s the point. What used to smell like power and feel out of reach now smells like dinner.

The Smith & Wollensky flagship brings with it all the hallmarks that made the original iconic: USDA Prime beef flown in chilled, then dry-aged in-house, including the signature Swinging Tomahawk, the quintessential seafood tower, and the classic split pea soup, a special house recipe that is not to be missed.  The large dining space channels an assured confidence, with several private dining rooms, a separate jazz lounge featuring musician Bobby West and his band, and a more casual dining area. Both areas offer access to the restaurant’s strong cocktails and a carefully-considered wine list. It’s Smith & Wollensky, unmistakably, just with a bit of Manila edge.

At Smith & Wollensky Manila, the dining experience begins with a selection of essential starters such as the lump fish crab cake, enriched with a touch of cognac, and served alongside both a tangy mustard sauce and a fragrant ginger sauce. Another must-try is the “Angry Shrimp,” crispy, battered shrimp finished with a decadent drizzle of lobster butter. For those seeking a classic indulgence, the steak tartare delivers. Complementing these are standout salads like the house Wollensky Salad of romaine lettuce, mushrooms, and potato croutons, and a modern take on the ubiquitous Iceberg Wedge that is topped with a creamy blue cheese dressing. Both salads are punctuated by tasty, thick-cut bacon lardons. A velvety lobster bisque or the hearty, comforting split pea soup are also both timeless accompaniments for any steak meal.

Smith & Wollensky’s celebrates premium beef, showcasing only USDA Prime cuts sourced from the top 2% of cattle in the United States. These classic steaks and filet cuts are expertly prepared to highlight their natural richness and depth of flavor. American Wagyu selections from renowned producers like Double R Ranch and Snake River Farms are also available. A true showstopper is the American Wagyu Swinging Tomahawk from Snake River Farms. Dramatically plated, the shareable dish delivers both flavor and spectacle. 

During a recent visit, the 28-day aged bone-in ribeye was the finest steak I’ve had at any Manila steakhouse, perfectly marbled, deeply savory, and masterfully cooked. While I found my steak perfect as is, a tempting selection of steak enhancers is readily available for those looking to amplify their experience further. Options include lobster in hollandaise sauce, fresh Japanese sea urchin with uni butter, and rich roasted bone marrow. For guests who come to a steakhouse seeking Surf as well as Turf, there are satisfying seafood entrées like Maine lobster, black cod, and wild salmon. As for sides, while I found the truffle mac and cheese underwhelming, the corn manchego and whipped potatoes were both flawless. Specialty rice accompaniments, particularly the foie gras rice, are thoughtful additions to the Manila menu and sure to resonate with Filipino diners who know that steak and rice are a winning pairing. 

To end the meal, the towering chocolate layer cake is a must-order. Served with a generous dollop of cream on each plate, it’s rich, indulgent, and easily large enough to satisfy six people.

Dining at Smith & Wollensky in Manila feels like reconnecting with an old friend in an unexpected place.  It’s more than just a restaurant, it’s a symbol of how far things have come, both for the city and for me. What once represented aspiration now feels like arrival, and it’s deeply gratifying to see this storied New York institution thrive in my other “greatest city in the world.” In many ways, it feels right that Smith & Wollensky is now part of Manila’s dining landscape, and is a reminder that great food and endless possibilities can find a home anywhere.

The Finance Centre, 26th Street corner 9th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig; 02. 8248. 9470.

Photos by Medal Elepaño