Inside Iai: A Culinary Gem Redefining Kappo Dining in Manila
Whether you are a gastronome, an oenophile, an aesthete, or just someone in search of a revelatory culinary experience, Iai, the newest Kappo-style restaurant of celebrated chef Bruce Ricketts, and his wife, Jae Pickrell, will mesmerize your palate and captivate all of your senses.
Offering two distinct omakase menus that change frequently based on seasonality, each menu is a different expression of Rickett’s chosen ingredients. Both menus follow a specific format: a series of otsumami, or appetizer courses, followed by a fish and/or meat dish, and dessert. The sushi omakase, which has 12-14 courses and revolves around a nigiri lineup, is the extended tasting experience with Japanese flourishes that Ricketts is most renowned for.
Chef Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell.
Kieran Punay / Courtesy of Lifestyle Asia
“The sushi course is my absolute favorite,” says Pickrell. “Bruce has put so much care and thought into his nigiri practice and has forged his own style such that every single piece is deliciously distinctive.”
The kappo omakase is a shorter tasting menu of 5-6 courses and does not include a nigiri selection, but instead has a plated fish course; its dishes also differ from those in the sushi omakase. “Iai’s culinary journey is about rediscovering and refining our growth and style, and revisiting what has been around me this whole time, whether old dishes from years ago or local ingredients that I have overlooked in the past,” says Ricketts.
Kieran Punay / Courtesy of Lifestyle Asia
Housed in a newly designed space in Bonifacio Global City that was conceptualized by the couple, Iai was brought to life by Studio Ong in collaboration with a number of Filipino creatives and craftsmen. The chef’s counter overlooks the kitchen and is the ideal place to enjoy your meal while observing and interacting with Ricketts on his theatrical stage. There are also two tables for small groups and a private room that seats up to 10 people comfortably.
Both the food offering and design elements at Iai allow Ricketts and Pickrell the freedom to look outward toward Japan and other foreign influences, but also to discover what is available in the Philippines. “It was important to us that Iai not be a facsimile of what you’d find in Japan when you think of a sushiya or kappo restaurant and that we pay tribute to Filipino hallmarks that would still feel relevant to us,” Pickrell shares.
Kieran Punay / Courtesy of Lifestyle Asia
“We want to parse the nuances between what we import versus what’s locally available, such as the seafood we discovered recently in Basilan. But that’s not to say Iai will be using mostly Filipino ingredients—our products will still be global.”
This refined global design intention paired with a mindful exploration of materials is also evident in the restaurant’s finer details; tree bark and kamagong are used for its custom oshibori trays, sarashi trays, and cutlery rests; Abel table napkins from the northern Philippines are hand-loomed; Menu cardstock is sourced from a specialty paper mill in Verona, Italy. The placemats are made from special leather-like abaca paper, produced by a social-enterprise company that works with sustainable Filipino materials. Most of the tableware, however, are carefully selected Japanese pieces sourced from different prefectures in Japan.
Kieran Punay / Courtesy of Lifestyle Asia
The wine and beverage list is as intimate and thoughtful as everything else at Iai, and reflects the couple’s preference of Champagnes and red and white Burgundies. “Our wine and beverage list is quite special because we put it together ourselves, without a sommelier or formal wine training. It is based purely on our personal preferences, our growing geekiness about wine, tea, and cocktails, and how well we think these would pair with Bruce’s food,” continues Pickrell.
She is particularly proud of the by-the-glass wine program. “I always immediately fall in love with restaurants that have amazing wines by the glass, which I always see in Japan, and this is something we are committed to offer at Iai.”
Chef Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell.
Kieran Punay / Courtesy of Lifestyle Asia
A self-professed “massive tea drinker,” Pickrell made certain that straightforward preparations of Japanese teas are available at at Iai. She works alongside specialized purveyors from both Tokyo and Kanazawa who, in turn, work with small- batch, single-estate farmers across different Japanese prefectures.
In the few short months since its opening, Iai has established itself as one of Manila’s most serious contenders for best new restaurants. Reservations may be tough to land but perseverance is surely rewarded.
This article originally appeared in the Premiere Issue of Robb Report Philippines.