Best of the Best 2025: Jewelry
Best of the Best: Nature Sauvage by Cartier
For a heritage house like Cartier, it’s easy to mine the archives for inspiration; the challenge is to evolve the design in contemporary ways.
Mission accomplished. The Nature Sauvage high-jewelry collection advances the maison’s iconic motifs in colorful, playful forms, with curvaceous shapes that sweep up the ear or drape around the neck like a silk scarf.
What stands out is an enduring modernity: Cartier’s use of beaded stones—rooted in early 20th-century designs—still looks fresh today, notably in pieces like the necklace Le Voyage Recommencé.
Objet d’Art: Water by Jewelmer
For nearly half a century, Jewelmer has represented the Philippines in the world of haute joaillerie, crafting masterpieces from rare South Sea pearls. Earlier this year, the maison unveiled another remarkable collection, Objets d’Art, reflecting an aspiration to incorporate universal elements into its pieces.
The collection features four exceptional works, each inspired by the elements of the universe—water, earth, fire, and air. Every design expresses nature’s essence, centered on golden pearls and multicolored gemstones, with each piece taking five years to create.
The Water piece, in particular, captures the fluidity and grace of its element. A golden South Sea pearl, echoing a droplet on a serene surface, is adorned with lapis lazuli, crystal quartz, and sapphires to create a rippling effect and a sense of natural movement. This exceptional piece also transforms into a striking brooch, adding versatility to its artistic design.
Historic Artifact: Glenn Spiro, Materials of the Old World
For over a decade, British jeweler Glenn Spiro and his son, Joe, have been collecting 17th-century Baoulé gold artifacts, finely etched and handworked by the African tribespeople. This year, they combined these decorative elements with antique diamonds and other centuries-old treasures in his Materials of the Old World collection. “You can wear something that is thousands of years old in a contemporary, cool style,” says the elder Spiro, known for his unconventional way of setting rare stones. In his hands, statement pieces—like this necklace with Baoulé fragments, ancient amber beads, and diamonds—draw attention not for their carat weight but for their striking composition.
Revival: Belperron Toggle Torque Necklace
Jewelry connoisseurs will no doubt recognize the design. Created by Suzanne Belperron in 1933 as a black-lacquered cord looped around a diamond button, it was an ultramodern and quirky concept that was quickly snapped up by avant-garde couturiere Elsa Schiaparelli for her personal collection. Today, its influence can be seen in many jewelers’ collections that imitate Belperron’s genius. But who better to do it justice than current Belperron president Nico Landrigan? When he acquired a massive old-mine brilliant-cut fancy light-yellow VS2 diamond weighing in at over 65 carats, he chose the Toggle Torque’s simple setting as the best framework to let the exceptional stone stand out.
Archive-Inspired Design: Tiffany & Co. Star Burst Necklace
Tiffany’s star burst necklace is the embodiment of what high jewelry should be: exceptional stones and craftsmanship in an entrancing play of color, sparkle, and fantastical design. Inspired by archival sketches from legendary 20th-century designer Jean Schlumberger, this exquisite work is made with 64 carats of billowy crystal opals that have vibrant flashes of red, orange, blue, and green, surrounded by diamond starbursts. Intended to evoke a luminous galaxy in a wearable objet d’art, it also nods to the cosmic nature of gemstones.
Necklace: Van Cleef & Arpels Nœuds Marins Necklace
This extravagant necklace is the pièce de résistance of Van Cleef & Arpels’s Treasure Island high-jewelry collection, launched in Miami earlier this year with a grand gala at the Vizcaya Museum—complete with dancing pirates. Set in white gold with diamonds, a 31.99-carat emerald-cut Colombian emerald, and a giant cabochon-cut turquoise pendant, the necklace represents a perfect combination of skill in stone setting and an eye for color. The twisted marine knots of its rope-like collar play to the theme, but its true inspiration comes from a 1979 archival design. Unlike its somewhat restrained predecessor, this piece is significantly more substantial in terms of both gems and craftsmanship. It transforms to be worn without the turquoise drop or with a separate diamond, turquoise, and emerald tassel pendant. What better way to tie one on?
Colored Diamonds: Harry Winston Pink Diamond
Harry Winston earned his reputation as the King of Diamonds by acquiring the world’s rarest stones, most notably the 45.52-carat deep-blue Hope Diamond, which he donated to the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., in 1958. Following in his footsteps, his son Ronald (who is no longer affiliated with the house) gave the Winston Red, a 2.33-carat fancy-red diamond, to the museum in 2023; it went on view for the first time this year.
The company’s CEO, Nayla Hayek, who is also chairwoman of parent company Swatch Group, has similarly remained steadfast to the founder’s passion for exquisite colored diamonds. Among the brand’s treasures are the Winston Blue, a 13.22-carat vivid-blue diamond; the Winston Pink Legacy, an 18.96-carat vivid-pink diamond; and this newly acquired 5.22-carat fancy-intense-pink cushion-cut stone. Set in a platinum and 18-karat-rose-gold ring and surrounded by approximately 1.64 carats of white diamonds, it’s destined for a connoisseur with a museum-worthy collection.
Bracelet: Santi Spinel Bracelet
Set with 10 octagonal-cut antique Afghan (Tajikistan) spinels dating to the 19th century, this bracelet is a prime example of Santi designer Krishna Choudhary’s exceptional access to historic stones. Based in Jaipur for 10 generations, his family has sourced gems for India’s maharajas and nobility for centuries. Now, the 36-year-old Choudhary—who studied art before becoming a jeweler—has forged his own path by setting antique gems in modern geometric designs. Because of its complexity, this articulated open-worked titanium bracelet, featuring an intricate lattice of custom-cut baguette diamonds, took three years to complete. It was worth the wait.
Sapphire: Graff Sapphire and Diamond Bangle
Extraordinary gems are a given at Graff, but when the house debuted new high jewelry in New York City last November, a 118.17-carat cushion-cut unheated Sri Lankan sapphire stole the spotlight—even in a room of stones that would make the most seasoned collector gasp. A sapphire of this size and quality is incredibly scarce. To emphasize its rarity, Graff mounted it atop an 18-karat-white-gold bangle—the stepped metal arches framing the central stone—and further adorned the piece with 39.70 carats of custom-cut fancy and round diamonds extending the full length of the setting.
For a complete list of Robb Report Philippines’ Best of the Best awardees, click here.