The New Hermès H08 Makes an Argument for Unconventional Sports Watches

Hermès seems more interested in interrupting the circle than in perfecting it. The H08 has made a compelling exercise out of unconventional geometry and a decidedly eccentric sense of proportion. Now, the maison revisits its contemporary sports watch with two new interpretations in braided glass fiber and ceramic.

Introduced in 2021, the H08 occupies an interesting position in the Hermès watchmaking catalogue: Its cushion-shaped case avoids the familiar vocabulary of luxuryLuxuryA lifestyle defined by exceptional quality, craftsmanship, exclusivity, and sophistication, encompassing the finest products, services, and experiences that represent the highest standards of refinement and excellence.Go to Luxury Glossary sports watches, dispensing with the angular aggression and integrated steel bracelets that have dominated the category. The softened corners and rounded contours instead lend it an architectural quality.

For the latest editions, Hermès has chosen an unusual composite of braided glass fibres with an aluminum-coated surface. Its woven texture introduces a subtle irregularity beneath the otherwise controlled geometry. A ceramic bezel, finished with sunburst satin brushing and mirror-polished chamfers, offers a cleaner perimeter around the dial. Measuring 39 mm across, the case also offers water resistance to 10 bar, equivalent to approximately 100 meters.

Much of the H08’s personality resides in its unconventional Arabic numerals. Rendered in an unconventional typeface, the ruthenium-treated applied Arabic markers are playful, a feature seldom encountered in serious mechanical watchmaking. Super-LumiNova coats the numerals and hands, and a discreet date aperture sits between four and five o’clock. A small orange accent on the seconds hand introduces another characteristic Hermès staple.

The first configuration adopts an almost entirely white composition. Paired here is a white ceramic bezel and lacquered dial with a matching rubber strap. The second introduces Bleu de Malte, dressed in the house’s signature blue, across the bezel, dial accents, and strap. Given the cooler contrast, it actually draws greater attention to the layered construction of the face.

Visually, the white edition, thanks to its distinct coloring, exposes the relationships between the different surfaces, from the satin-brushed bezel to the lacquered dial and textured case. The monochromatic treatment also makes the numerals look sculptural and cool. There is an appeal to the uniqueness, particularly now, in a market where so many sports watches aim to look distinctive through more elaborate cases.

On the other hand, the blue version offers something different: Its contrasting rings and prominent markers give the dial greater visual depth, although the arrangement can seem a little busy. Legibility should benefit from the generous luminous applications, but the unconventional typography may take some getting used to. Admirers of traditional instrument-watch dials will likely find the H08 a bit too quirky, but for anyone looking for something out of the ordinary, it pretty much fits the bill.

Beneath the dial operates the manufacture Hermès H1837, a Swiss-made self-winding movement running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz. It measures 26 mm in diameter and 3.7 mm thick, with a 50-hour power reserve, respectable for an excellent automatic timepiece.

Still, the movement lends the H08 mechanical credibility among collectors inclined to dismiss fashion-house watches as exercises in branding. Hermès has developed a recognizable horological identity in its own right, and the H1837 provides a credible mechanical foundation for the collection.

The material combination suggests a lighter alternative to conventional steel sports watches, and the rubber strap appears consistent with its casual character. Whether the composite case translates into a convincing experience on the wrist will require a hands-on assessment. Overall, it’s a watch that isn’t afraid to stand out, and that’s probably its most distinctive quality.

In Manila, Hermès timepieces are available at the Hermès boutique in Greenbelt 3, Makati City. More information here.