How Grand Seiko and Credor Define Japanese Watchmaking

Grand Seiko and Credor had a whole different feel at Watches and Wonders this year, and it was very much talked about throughout the fair.

Grand Seiko and Credor may belong to the same group, but at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, their separate exhibition spaces revealed two distinct identities: Grand Seiko’s synthesis of precision and nature-inspired design, and Credor’s devotion to engraving, lacquerwork and other traditional Japanese crafts.

Grand Seiko occupied a large, open and welcoming space that visitors would reach by walking past both Patek Philippe and Chopard. While the two Swiss brands had displays of watches, movements and history, what you saw on approaching Grand Seiko was a kind of moving art piece, with glowing white orbs rising and falling softly between the ceiling and a table. It was an enchanting space, which I visited several times between meetings, sitting on one of the couches to get some work done.

All the watches, of course, were there. The highlight was the Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, arguably the most highly finished and accurate rotor-powered dive watch on the market right now. It uses the extremely precise and consistent Spring Drive system, brought to its highest level through the Ultra Fine Accuracy technology released the previous year. This is combined with an exceptionally executed dial inspired by the meeting of tides flowing around different parts of an island.

All of this is housed in a high-intensity titanium case, finished, brushed and beveled to the highest standards. Grand Seiko applies the same attention to its Zaratsu polishing, hands, indices and even the movement details that remain unseen. In many ways, the design of the booth expressed the brand’s identity precisely.

Then there was Credor, with its own booth for the first time, introducing itself to the wider watchmaking world in a much stronger, though still understated, way. Credor’s design philosophy has more to do with the highest levels of handwork than with cutting-edge technology. The brand speaks less about the times and places that inspire it and more about the arts and crafts within its world, including lacquerwork, hand engraving, maki-e and shell inlay.

Among the pieces on display was the Goldfeather Tourbillon Limited Edition, presented in a platinum case with a fully hand-engraved and hand-finished dial. Tiny dots create the subtle impression of gemstone sparkle, while different sections carry distinct brushed finishes. Its Roman numerals were executed in ultra-fine linear engraving by hand as we watched.

Credor also presented a Goldfeather with an urushi lacquer dial, on which everything, including the indices and text, had been applied by hand using an exceptionally fine brush. The artisan responsible for producing these extraordinarily difficult pieces was present at the booth.

Both Grand Seiko and Credor offered something noticeably different from much of what surrounded them at the fair. Judging by how often they came up in conversation—among casual visitors and some of the most respected figures in fine watchmaking—the execution of their respective visions was warmly welcomed.

While Grand Seiko stood among the larger Swiss brands, Credor was positioned alongside smaller independent watchmakers. The placement suited the brand’s commitment to handwork and individuality, as well as the personal conversations these watches prompt between their creators and those interested in owning them. The last Credor Maki-e Tourbillon was produced in a series of only 10 pieces. In terms of design, production and appeal, the brand operates much like an independent watchmaker.

This article originally appeared in Robb Report Philippines’ Design Issue, June 2026.