Quietly yet deliberately, subtle but insistent, fire dominates the dining room at Liyab. Smoke curls from the grill, slabs of beef and fish age in full view, and bottles of fermenting liquids, fruits, and meats line the shelves. Cream-colored furniture, rust-colored walls, and light wood create a calm, contemporary backdrop, while cloud-like abaca lamps hang like suspended fireballs, a reminder that flame is both muse and medium. Charles Montañez, formerly of Allegria and the force behind Mamacita Taqueria, commands the space with assured confidence. Owner, head chef, and chief storyteller, he creates nearly every dish with fire and technique honed over years of exploration. The kitchen is his stage that he shares with his young team: chefs move in sync, explaining ingredients and finishing dishes tableside. Service is warm, informative, never intrusive, and choreographed where diners witness transformation without feeling overwhelmed. The debut tasting menu begins with a soup that is..
