13 Essential Books for Watch Collectors

There’s no such thing as too many books. They add interest to a coffee table, brighten up a shelf, and, more importantly…educate you about a passion. Watch collecting and book collecting really go hand in hand. Every year, there are informative titles dropping from beloved brands and industry experts. Whether you enjoy casually perusing pages of stunning photos or actually want to dive deep into history, these watch books deliver. From a guide to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to an essential deep dive into Cartier’s Tank watch, here are 13 you may want to add to your library as you expand your collecting journey. And, if you really want to be an expert, you should also consider these must-have books that are requisite wells of knowledge.

Rolex: The Impossible Collection

If you’re looking to wax on about the Crown, then you might start here. Watch expert, Fabienne Reybaud provides an expansive dive into the most valuable and technically innovative models by Rolex. These are the watches that make Rolex the reigning king of the auction block. Plus, it contains never-before-seen-in-print Rollies like the Explorer worn by Sir Edmund Hilary to the summit of Mt. Everest in 1953. This is the second edition of the collectible tome and it will set you back a hefty $1,400, but Assouline will also send you a pair of white gloves with the purchase to handle the precious watch bible.

100 Iconic Watches

Watch journalist and expert Gisbert L. Brunner has published more than 20 books on timepieces and he’s back at it again with his latest for TeNeues, 100 Iconic Watches. This is the perfect read for new collectors who want to be well-versed in the timepieces that every serious enthusiast knows. Brunner covers everything from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Omega Speedmaster and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s groundbreaking caliber 101 movement. Of course, as always with icons, these models frequently exceed auction block estimates. 

Breitling: 140 Years in 140 Stories

Written by Gregory Breitling, longtime Breilting collector and historian Fred Mandelbaum, journalist and watch expert Jeff Stein, and Kris Stoever, the daughter of astronaut Scott Carpenter, this tome is for horology and aviation enthusiasts alike. Since its beginnings in 1884, Breitling has built a weighty legacy of timekeepers crafted for the skies. This includes chronographs for civil aviation and hardcore tool watches built to endure the extreme climate of space travel. Executed as an entertaining read blending both history and first-hand personal accounts this book will be a crowd-pleaser for those interested in groundbreaking innovation

GREGORY BREITLING (Contributor), FRED MANDELBAUM (Contributor), Jeff Stein (Contributor), Kris Stoever (Contributor)

Patek Philippe: Investing in Wristwatches

To kick off our compilation we have a title for the true collector, one who views their watches as an investment like art or fine wine. Here, you get an in-depth look at the value of timepieces from one of the most prominent makers in the industry. It includes a curated selection of Patek models notable for their technical excellence, auction records, design and anecdotal history. For each, you get a beautiful photo, reference and sales values along with a comparative analysis of auction results, compiled through close collaboration with Sotheby’s.

Rolex Philosophy

This next title is for the ultimate Rolex devotee. From inception to present day, you can trace the evolution of the most influential brand in watchmaking. This book combines images, direct testimonials, unpublished interviews, contemporaneous ads, archive materials, technical details, auction results and more to paint a picture of what has made Rolex the powerhouse it is today.

Bulgari: Beyond Time

If you want a showpiece for your coffee table or mantle, look no further than Bulgari’s latest title. This book is worth its weight in gold, quite literally, and will instantly serve as a conversation starter at your next gathering. Amid page after page of larger-than-life images, you’ll find insightful essays on each collection from folks like Christie’s famed jewelry auctioneer Rahul Kadakia and nine-time Olympic gold-medalist Carl Lewis.

What Time is It?

If you’ve ever questioned whether watches are a way to deeply connect with other humans, you need to pick up this book. For over a decade, Swiss photographer Karine Bauzin traveled to 20 countries and spoke to roughly 200 people asking one simple question: what time is it? The result is the captivating photo journal that perfectly illustrates the universality of timekeepers. As an added bonus, the book comes to life in a traveling exhibition that left Geneva last month and is currently on display in Shanghai.

Patek Philippe: The Impossible Collection

Here’s a second offering for the fans of Patek. You may be familiar with Assouline’s “The Impossible Collection” series which has included brands like Rolex, Cartier, and Chanel. Now, you get the same deep dive into the world of Patek over the brand’s rich, 184-year history. In this retrospective, you can explore Patek’s most iconic timepieces and record-setting innovations, including exclusive photographs from prominent collectors.

The Watch Book: Oris and the Watchmaking History of Switzerland

Next up, we have the latest installment in “The Watch Book” series, marking the first coffee table tome dedicated to the brand Oris. This volume explores the rich history of watchmaking in Switzerland through the lens of Oris, a brand that offers a unique perspective for its down-to-earth values, independence, and exclusive production of mechanical watches.

Premier Story: Breitling Premier, Duograph and Datora

For lovers of the chronographChronographA watch complication that incorporates a stopwatch function, controlled by pushers on the case and displayed on small subdials. Originally developed for timing events, the chronograph remains popular for itsGo to Chronograph Glossary, you can go on a journey through Breitling’s work with the complication alongside its foremost collector and brand historian. This title traces the history of Breitling’s chronographs through three generations of family leadership. Each page is filled with exquisite photography, rarely-seen archival pieces, and a comprehensive dating-and-authentication guide for collectors.

The Dial: The Face of the Wristwatch in the 20th Century

True watch nerds will appreciate the depth of this intricate reference book exploring the focal point of every watch: the dial. Here, you get a comprehensive look at the art of dial making from simple silver decoration with printed hour markers to complex and unique cloisonné-champlevé enamel dials. The book is divided into three sections, first exploring the famous Geneva dial maker Stern and then closely looking at the processes required to produce a dial. The final portion culminates in a selection of dials from iconic watches.

The Cartier Tank Watch

The Cartier Tank is perhaps one of the most iconic watches ever created and has rightfully earned a cult following. For lovers of this unmistakable design, here’s an ode to the Tank. Throughout this title, you’ll find extensive archival documents along with previously unpublished photographs that highlight the most significant Tank watches and their technical characteristics as well as famous wearers of the emblematic model.

Royal Oak 39: The Book

There are loads of books devoted to the Royal Oak and for good reason. It’s a model that arguably defined the sport watch category when it first debuted in 1972. Here, you get a tribute to that rich history from the perspective of collectors and enthusiasts around the globe. This includes over 100 rare versions of the Royal Oak from prestigious collections fully photographed and detailed.

This article originally appeared in Robb Report US.